Understandably, as there is something marvellously soothing and also elevating about staging a show in a church. Today, Y/Project took over the Oratoire du Louvre, in the middle of the afternoon, and the natural light gave a glow to a collection that, while being consistent to the codes and the technicalities that define the identity of the brand, marked a further step forward, towards a new classicism.
Well, classicism à la Y/Project: twisted to the point of perversion, technically speaking. The creative process for Martens is steeped in construction, not in the illusionism of styling: that’s what makes him a creative force to be reckoned with. But he is also very good at image making: he has invented an easy to identify kind of man, a sort of outlaw with an elegant swagger, a suburban dandy with a grin. This season, this character was looking particularly dapper, decked in tailored pieces that never ceased to morph, mould and liquify. Martens has a way of capturing movement and opening the possibilities of cloth that is unique. As a young master, he deserves kudos, even more so because he is not screaming for attention.