MILAN, Italy — The urge for endless newness is a natural one in fashion. Yet, it can be toxic, especially for designers in the process of honing their signature. With a wise move, Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland, the creative directors — of women’s and men’s respectively — at Salvatore Ferragamo, opted for a continuation of the first season for their sophomore outing.
The spare, roomy lines, precious fabrications and pictorial colours were just the same, emanating a sense of calm and self-possession as the ultimate luxury. The historic Italian brand is undergoing an interesting phase of repositioning, distancing itself further more from the ebbs and flows of fashion in favour of timeless classicism.
It’s like Ferragamo aims at fitting into a niche halfway between Céline à la Phoebe Philo and Hermès, which is a fitting program all things considering: intelligent clothing done in the best possible way and meant to be worn for a long time.
Of course, such a recipe can get a little boring on the catwalk: the show, in fact, would have benefited from vigorous editing. But it made a statement on timelessness that felt strong and timely; and one on colour that felt sophisticated.
Best in line were the leather pyjamas, macintosh ponchos and, for men, the slouchy coats and sturdy dungarees. The code is firmly set at this point. Next season could do with a little surprise.