MILAN, Italy — With a powerful femininity and all its signifiers — from bustiers to garters — making a comeback on the Milanese catwalks, is the notion of gender fluidity still in fashion? It seems that, at least when it comes to expensive Italian clothes, traditional gender norms are back, with the exception of women […]
At Emporio Armani, The Matrix Meets the Past
MILAN, Italy — How to escape the sportswear-streetwear trap, which has dominated the men’s fashion scene for so long but is increasingly showing signs of fatigue? In Italy, the winds of change are taking, understandably, a neo-sartorial route. But how to make tailoring modern? Throughout his career, Giorgio Armani has turned to deconstruction to make his […]
At Emporio Armani, Olympian Effort
MILAN, Italy — Let’s start from the end, which as an Italian felt quite emotional. A parade of Olympic and Paralympic Italian athletes, decked in the EA7 blue tracksuits that will provide the official uniform for the Italian team at the Tokyo Olympic games in 2020, closed the Emporio Armani show. Once again, Mr. Armani will […]
Armani the Auteur
PARIS, France — It’s long been one of the clichés of haute couture that it is a private pleasure, something created primarily for the client’s own enjoyment. Giorgio Armani acknowledged as much when he called his couture collection Privé. But his latest Privé outing seemed equally designed to please himself. Consider it a journey round Giorgio’s […]
Elegant Ambiguity in Milan
MILAN, Italy — In times of rising gender fluidity, the power of sexual ambiguity remains strong. This is particularly evident these days in Milan. We’re seeing a resurgence of formality on the runways, but it’s not about reverting to a previous ideal. What makes today’s quest for elegance so engaging is precisely the fact that it […]